Wooden Surfboard – 7’6″ Magic Carpet

At the start of the year I made a hollow wood surfboard that I thought I should detail more as part of the 2017 Best Nine. It's built from plans by Mike Skinner of a Magic Carpet that's 7'6" long.This one is called Custard Cream as the first board I made (a stand up paddleboard) got lots of flies stuck in the resin and was nicknamed Garibaldi so another biscuit name was required!The frame is plywood, as is the underneath. The deck is pine (the thin strips) and paulownia (the wide strips). The rails are alternating layers of cork and balsa.Glue used was Titebond 3 for the frame, deck and bottom then contact adhesive for the rails. Resin Research epoxy was used for the glassing.I did video the build throughout, as opposed to taking pictures. I have spliced all of the videos together here but it is quite long and repetitive at times. Ideally it needs editing down but for anyone who is interested now then you can see the idea then skip onto the next section if you want.  https://youtu.be/RZBz8IokgS0

Spyderco Mule MT01 52100 – forced patina progression

 Some pictures showing through making a forced patina on a 52100 blade, though some pictures are missing as I went along. A patina is an oxide layer on the steel and it can help resist rust forming.Sauces used - English Mustard, Tesco hot sauce, Tomato ketchup.The process is as simple as dabbing some on and leaving it then clean off and repeat. Most activity happens round the edge of the splodges, presumaby it needing some air to react the most.More pictures of the complete knife here: Spyderco Mule MT01 52100 in Yew BurrPretty cool, huh?
A second rehandled Lofty Wiseman Survival Tool!

A second rehandled Lofty Wiseman Survival Tool!

This is the second Staniforths Lofty Wiseman Survival Tool I have rehandled. The first was in Yew and can be seen here: Yew Handled Lofty Wiseman Survival ToolI have a feeling these are all under the Trueways Survival umbrella, with the design tweaked by Chris Caine but may be incorrect!For the handle of this one I reshaped the profile to do away with the poor quality guard and used Red Mallee which has a subtle chatoyance / ripple in the grain. Under the Mallee is micarta made from black denim and the pins used are black carbon fibre.The blade of this one had quite deep grind lines from manufacture so rather than trying for a perfect finish that would have involved removing a lot of steel, a random forced patina was applied using vinegar.
Sheath for “The Great Alaskan Ulu”

Sheath for “The Great Alaskan Ulu”

A relatively simple build but quite needed!Rough Rider's Ulu model, "The Great Alaskan Ulu comes ith out a sheath but has a super thin slicey blade so if it's going on camp wth you it needs some sort of cover.The blade shape is similar to an axe so need a similar sort of cover that has a flap over the end due to the blade widening to the edge.
Two rehandled Martindales in Bog Oak

Two rehandled Martindales in Bog Oak

Here we have two customised Martindales that I rehandled in Bog Oak. One is the Paratrooper model and the other is the Golok. Green self-made micarta liners have been utilised between the Bog Oak and tang.Leather sheaths compliment the look with a fold over flap held by a chicago screw.Its quite satisfying to put a new handle on Martindales - the originals have lots of gaps as the desire of manufacture is obviously to keep costs low rather than put out a quality product. Hopefully now they're a tool that is now desirable!
A James Wood knife, rediscovered!

A James Wood knife, rediscovered!

So I was doing some sorting in the workshop earlier and came across this knife I started back in 2011. (An update, long overdue)  The blade is by James Wood and for the handle I had fit a Mammoth Ivory bolster with a Desert Ironwood spacer and Curly Birch handle.I had put it to the sidebecause on that initial shaping I felt that the handle would end up too small and 'wrong'. When I came across it today I figured that I may as well have a play with the handle and see if it would work as is.The results are below, and I think quite promising. I'm going to persist with it - it still need the handle thinning a bit at the front as well as general smoothing.I think I'm also going to play with some dye on the Birch. It's something I've been meaning t try and this would be a good candidate as the wood isn't as Curly as some Curly Birch.
Sold: Fieldcrafter in Blackwood and Apple wood with Carbon Fibre Pins

Sold: Fieldcrafter in Blackwood and Apple wood with Carbon Fibre Pins

Here we have small fieldcrafter in O1 steel. It is handled in African Blackwood for the bolsters and Apple wood for the rest of the handle. Carbon Fibre pins have been used so they almost disappear in the Blackwood. The price is £80 delivered in the UK due to some patina marks on the blade.These won't impair function and after a bit of use and sharpening will disappear.
Spyderco Mule MT12 Cruwear in Lignum Vitae

Spyderco Mule MT12 Cruwear in Lignum Vitae

Sometimes simple just works. The handle on this Spyderco Mule is pretty plain Lignum Vitae but when examined it has some really nice detail to the grain and a real warmth. The visible pins are Carbon fibre but I also put some hidden pins in place as well to add strength but not mark the clean look too much.The steel on this one is Cruwear and the leather sheath has my standard striped pattern.nhnhnh
Spyderco Mule MT01 52100 – forced patina progression

Spyderco Mule MT01 52100 – forced patina progression

 Some pictures showing through making a forced patina on a 52100 blade, though some pictures are missing as I went along. A patina is an oxide layer on the steel and it can help resist rust forming.Sauces used - English Mustard, Tesco hot sauce, Tomato ketchup.The process is as simple as dabbing some on and leaving it then clean off and repeat. Most activity happens round the edge of the splodges, presumaby it needing some air to react the most.More pictures of the complete knife here: Spyderco Mule MT01 52100 in Yew BurrPretty cool, huh?